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                                                                               Dart	manipulation	pdf
  This	criterion	is	linked	to	a	Learning	Outcome	Part	3:	Original	Garment	Design	Muslin:	SEAMS	&	DARTS	_7972	Accurate	sewing	of	seams	&	darts	(location,	order,	type,	width,	evenness)	threshold:	pts	PatternLab	gives	you	a	large	variety	of	dart	manipulations	to	choose	from	when	it	comes	to	designing	your	basic	blocks	&	slopers,	but	sometimes
  that’s	not	enough.	Perhaps	you	want	your	French	dart	to	be	slightly	lower	than	the	standard	that	we	provide,	or	maybe	you	want	a	curved	dart?	There	are	so	many	options	available.	This	tutorial	will	teach	you	the	necessary	tools	you	need	to	add	your	own	custom	dart	placements	and	dart	manipulations	to	your	PatternLab	basic	block	or	sloper.	It’s	a
  simple	yet	powerful	technique	that	is	well	worth	learning.	You	can	apply	this	tutorial’s	techinque	to	any	basic	block	that	features	darts,	however,	for	this	tutorial	we	recomend	starting	with	something	simpe	such	as	a	basic	bodice	block	with	“Classic”	front	darts.	To	save	time,	click	the	button	below.	We’ll	create	a	basic	block	(in	the	Lab)	that	already
  has	this	dart	preselected	for	you.	All	you’ll	need	to	do	is	select	a	profile	or	one	of	our	standard	sizes.	Don’t	forget	to	purchase	your	block	as	an	ePattern	and	not	a	PDF!	PDF	patterns	can’t	be	edited,	they	can	only	be	printed	on	paper.	ePatterns	ar	fully	editable	digital	basic	blocks.	Learn	how	to	use	Adobe	Illustrator	as	a	digital	pattern	making	platform
  Learn	the	step-by-step	basics	of	digital	pattern	making	in	Adobe	Illustrator	in	our	short	crash	course.	It’s	your	first	step	to	producing	digital	sewing	patterns	like	a	pro.	Follow	this	simple	and	handy	tutorial	to	learn	how	to	add	seam	allowance	to	your	finished	pattern	in	Adobe	Illustrator.	Transform	your	finished	pattern	into	multi-page	PDF	patterns	in
  a	range	of	paper	sizes.	Then	save,	print,	share	and	sell	your	patterns	online.		Welcome	to	this	new	pattern	making	class,	in	today’s	class	you	will	learn	how	to	manipulate	chest	darts.	Today	you	will	learn	the	different	techniques	we	use	to	transfer	darts.The	first	one	that	we	will	see	will	be	the	technique	of	pivoting	a	dart	and	the	other	is	the	technique
  of	slash	and	spread.Both	techniques	are	very	important	and	it	is	imperative	that	you	master	both.Remember	that	this	class	is	designed	to	use	these	techniques	on	woven	fabric.Besides,	you	will	learn	in	a	very	visual	way	why	it	is	so	important	to	transfer	your	base	patterns	to	thicker	paper	or	even	to	transfer	them	to	plastic.ClassThen	we	will	see	how
  to	rotate	the	bust	dart	and	the	most	common	locations	where	we	can	find	a	bust	dart.You	will	also	learn	that	we	can	join	or	detach	the	darts,	keeping	the	same	effect.And	as	you	have	seen	in	the	class,	you	cannot	remove	a	dart	but	we	can	transform	it	so	that	it	continues	to	have	the	same	effect	but	with	a	different	appearance.Remember	that	I	already
  showed	you	how	to	add	seam	allowances	to	darts	in	the	dart	introductory	class.And	as	always,	if	you	have	any	questions	you	can	send	me	an	email	through	your	account	on	the	support	tab.Submit	your	exercisesYou	already	know	that	the	best	way	to	learn	is	by	doing	yourself,	so	for	this	class,	I’m	going	to	ask	you	to	send	me	the	following
  transformations:The	front	pattern	of	the	body	block	with	a	single	dart	made	with	the	pivoting	technique.The	same	pattern	of	the	front	body	block	with	a	single	dart	but	with	the	slash	and	spread	technique.Besides,	you	have	to	choose	two	of	the	transformations	that	you	will	find	at	the	end	of	the	class.So	that	I	can	send	you	more	complete	feedback,	try
  to	send	photos	where	the	patterns	are	clear	or	you	could	send	me	more	pictures	from	different	angles.	I	see	there	is	a	an	Add	Dart	tool	in	Clo.	However	is	it	possible	to	use	the	Slash/Spread	technique	often	used	when	designing	to	shift/pivot	the	dart	excess	from	one	position	to	another	in	a	bodice.	Example	shown	of	how	you	might	do	this	and	example
  of	the	many	dart	positions	that	can	be	utilised	in	a	bodice.	Image	not	available	forColor:	To	view	this	video	download	Flash	Player	One	of	the	things	we’ve	started	quizzing	our	pattern	testers	about	in	more	depth	is	dart	placement.	We	always	want	to	make	sure	the	location,	size	and	length	of	any	darts	we	add	to	our	patterns	fit	the	greatest	number	of
  people	(which	is	why	we	had	everyone	let	us	know	what	they	thought	of	the	dart	we	added	to	the	extended	sizing	for	our	Sienna	Maker	Jacket).	However,	human	bodies	being	the	widely	varying	beauties	they	are,	you	may	find	you	need	to	tweak	them	for	your	specific	needs.	Thankfully,	we	have	a	pro	on	staff	to	explain	all	this	in	greater	detail.	Our
  patternmaker	Celine	is	here	to	help	make	your	darting	fitting	woes	a	distant	dream!	Take	it	away	Celine!	The	purpose	of	a	dart	(either	at	the	waist	or	bust)	is	to	allow	the	fabric	to	be	shaped	so	the	garment	is	fitted	closer	to	the	body.	But	curves	being	very	variable	from	one	person	to	another,	dart	location	and	length	are	a	mere	suggestion	based	on
  average	sizes	and	body	shapes.	The	good	news	is	when	making	you’re	making	your	own	garments	you	can	correct	darts	pretty	easily	to	make	them	fit	your	body	perfectly.	Side	note:	if	you	want	some	help	sewing	darts,	Alexis	wrote	an	AMAZING	post	on	sewing	gorgeous	darts	I	encourage	you	to	go	check	out!	Darts	can	be	moved	around	as	much	as
  you	like.	Here	are	a	few	quick	and	easy	suggestions	for	dart	manipulation	using	our	Sienna	Maker	Jacket	from	the	extended	size	range	with	a	bust	dart:	HOW	TO	LENGTHEN	OR	SHORTEN	A	DART	When	trying	on	your	muslin,	the	bust	dart	may	look	too	long	or	too	short	depending	of	the	width	and	shape	of	your	breast.	In	general,	your	dart	tip
  should	end	about	an	inch	from	the	apex	or	fullest	point	of	your	bust;	this	ensures	you	are	adding	the	volume	where	you	need	it.	To	fix	a	dart	that	isn’t	ending	at	the	right	spot	on	your	body,	mark	your	muslin	or	pattern	with	your	bust	apex.	To	lengthen	or	shorten	the	dart	on	your	pattern	piece,	trace	a	line	from	center	of	dart	to	apex,	add	a	point	where
  your	dart	should	end	and	trace	your	new	dart	legs.	MOVE	DART	UP	OR	DOWN	If	your	bust	point	is	a	bit	higher	or	lower	than	the	pattern	but	you	still	like	how	the	dart	is	angled,	you	can	move	the	dart	up	or	down.	Mark	the	bust	point	on	your	muslin	and	then	transfer	the	new	apex	location	to	the	pattern	piece.	Trace	a	line	from	center	of	dart	to	apex,
  then	on	tracing	paper,	trace	the	entire	dart	with	seam	allowance,	dart	center	line	and	apex.	Move	tracing	paper	up	or	down	until	the	bust	center	line	reaches	the	new	bust	point	and	trace	your	new	dart.	RE-ANGLE	DART	TIP	If	your	bust	dart	is	not	pointing	toward	your	bust	apex	(which	is	the	most	common	issue	with	bust	darts!)	you	can	easily	rotate
  the	dart	point	so	it’s	hitting	you	at	the	right	spot.	On	your	muslin,	mark	your	bust	apex.	Transfer	the	new	apex	location	to	the	pattern	piece.	Trace	a	line	from	center	of	dart	to	new	apex	and	trace	your	new	dart	legs	which	should	be	the	same	length	as	on	the	original	pattern.	Rotating	a	dart	will	change	the	shape	of	the	dart	seam	allowance.	To	retrace
  it,	fold	your	dart	on	your	pattern	piece.	The	trick	is	to	place	you	dart	tip	at	the	corner	of	a	table	and	then	fold	your	dart	and	trace	new	seam	and	seam	allowance	with	a	tracing	wheel.	ROTATE	A	DART	TO	A	NEW	LOCATION	A	bust	dart	can	actually	be	rotated	anywhere	from	waist	to	neckline	depending	on	how	fitted	the	garment	is.	For	the	Sienna
  Maker	Jacket,	we	originally	drafted	the	bust	dart	in	the	armhole	because	we	liked	the	look,	but	we	ended	up	rotating	that	dart	into	the	side	seam	to	make	it	easier	to	manipulate	without	having	to	touch	the	armhole	for	the	final	pattern.	All	this	to	say:	you	can	definitely	change	darts	and	move	them	around	depending	on	your	preference.	You	can	also
  distribute	that	dart	width	into	one	or	more	darts	(fun	fact:	smaller	double	darts	distribute	volume	more	evenly	and	are	ideal	for	large	busts;	in	couture	they	are	known	as	“Dior	darts”!)	Here	I’m	going	to	show	you	the	fastest	way	to	move	your	dart	to	the	armhole,	shoulder	or	neckline	by	slashing	and	closing.	Trace	a	line	from	center	of	dart	to	apex.
  Then	trace	a	line	where	you	want	your	new	dart	to	be.	If	you’ve	made	a	muslin,	you	can	draw	this	line	on	your	toile	before	transferring	it	to	the	pattern	piece.	Trace	new	dart	legs	from	bust	point	to	dart	seam	allowance.	Slash	as	indicated	at	the	top	of	the	dart	and	along	your	new	dart	location,	stopping	just	before	dart	point	so	that	the	cut-out	piece
  can	rotate	easily.	Trace	a	line	at	the	center	of	the	new	dart	and	then	trace	dart	legs	starting	approximately	1”	from	apex	(you	can	adjust	the	length	on	you	muslin).	To	retrace	the	dart	seam	allowance,	fold	your	dart	on	your	pattern	piece	as	explained	earlier.	If	you’d	like	a	dart	at	the	shoulder	or	along	the	neckline,	repeat	this	same	slash	and	close
  method!	Hopefully,	this	makes	dart	fitting	a	bit	easier	going	forward!	And	don’t	forget	to	check	out	our	blog	post	on	sewing	darts	–	so	many	great	tricks	for	getting	beautifully	finished	darts!	Preliminary	Reading:	Manipulating	Darts	and	Manipulating	Darts	Bodice	Front.	Sometimes	creating	a	style	a	little	harder	than	just	moving	the	dart	from	one
  place	to	another	around	the	block.		Some	styles	may	take	some	problem	solving	skills,	some	may	require	a	two-step	process	(i.e.	pivoting	the	dart	into	another	position,	then	doing	some	cutting	and	spreading).	The	more	complex	dart	manipulations	include:	The	some	additional	points	that	will	help	you	understand	for	some	the	dart	manipulations	listed
  above	are:	Using	Pivoting	Method	to	Create	Parallel	Darts	Note:	The	cut-and-spread	method	is	generally	easier	to	understand	and	apply,	but	more	time	consuming	than	pivoting.	Parallel	darts,	by	their	very	nature,	cannot	have	both	darts	pointing	towards	the	Bust	Point.		This	would	result	in	an	upside-V	shape	(	Λ	)	rather	than	two	parallel	lines.		
  Therefore,	when	pivoting	to	create	a	pattern	with	parallel	darts,	you	can't	use	the	Bust	Point	if	you	want	to	end	up	with	parallel	lines.	In	the	image	below,	parallel	darts	in	the	waist	are	drawn	on	a	block	that	has	the	dart	in	the	shoulder.		You	should	be	able	to	'see'	that	if	both	of	those	lines	ended	up	at	the	Bust	Point,	they	would	not	be	parallel.		The
  pattern	on	the	right	is	created	by	using	the	two	pivot	points	to	the	right	and	to	the	left	of	the	BP	to	create	those	parallel	darts.	It	is	easier	to	understand	this	in	practice	-			follow	the	step-by-step	instructions	in	Style	27	to	create	the	parallel	darts	using	pivot	points	other	than	the	BP.	Guidelines	for	working	with	darts	that	do	not	point	to	the	Bust	Point
  The	dart	in	the	bodice	points	towards	the	fullest	part	of	the	bust.	When	you	have	darts	that	do	not	point	towards	the	bust,	there	are	a	few	rules	that	you	should	follow	to	avoid	distortion:	For	parallel	darts,	pivot	points	should	be	no	further	away	than	1.19-inches	from	the	Bust	Point.	The	further	away	the	dart	is	from	the	dart	point	(to	the	right	or	to	the
  left)	the	shorter	the	dart	should	be.	The	further	away	the	dart	is	from	the	Bust	Point	(to	the	right	or	to	the	left),	the	narrower	the	dart	should	be	(the	value	of	the	dart	needs	to	be	smaller).	See	the	image	below	for	examples	of	these	three	guides:	Looking	at	the	Block	of	the	left:	all	pivot	points	should	fall	within	the	circle	shown.	The	circle	has	a	radius
  of	1.19	inches,	this	means	any	pivot	point	will	be	within	1.19	inches	of	the	BP.	Looking	at	the	pattern	on	the	right:	the	original	dart	is	shown	with	black	dashed	lines.			The	dart	points	ends	about	.68-inch	before	the	BP.		Notice	that	two	parallel	darts	(shown	in	pink)	are	quite	a	bit	shorter	than	this.	Looking	at	the	pattern	on	the	right:	the	two	darts	are
  half	the	width	of	the	original	dart;	you	could	not	put	the	full	value	of	the	waist	dart	into	dart	B	or	C.	
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